Saturday, May 26, 2012

Bright sunshiney day

Heaven! Im in heaven!

 Where to begin? Today was an amazing day and still is. After a very tastey dinner last night, a little wine and a good night's sleep, we woke today around 9:30 and headed downstairs for breakfast (colazione). On our small terrace with the sun peeking at us over the hills, we ate croissant (with nutella, of course) sliced meat, yogurt, juice and caffe latte.

Since it was such a beautiful morning, we decided to make use of the sunshine and start our day by kayaking on the Mediterranean Sea. So we made a visit to our local boatman (the writer of the new holiday symphony, the Nut Scratcher), and rented a plastic tandem kayak.

Either we looked very sporty, or they just figure most people know how to ride a kayak. Cause the minute we sat down (or the minute I wedged my hips into the unforgiving narrow plastic seat), they pushed us out to sea and gave us a quick wave. No asking if we know how to paddle or swim. NO telling us where we should or shouldn't go.

We figured it out well enough, though. We paddled around the coast, feeling the roll of the light waves and gazing up at the tall wind-carved rocks. So beautiful. We paddled and relaxed in the kayak for about an hour before our butts/legs fell asleep so we headed back to our beach.  We dismounted (I somewhat awkwardly) the kayak and then had to stand in the water for about 5 minutes until our legs woke up again.

The beach in Positano is limited -- there are little beach areas surrounded by rocks; so of course they can get a little bit crowded. That is why sections of them are fenced off and allowed only for people who pay a daily rate of 5-10 Euro. We paid the fee and got a very nice spot with lounge chairs, table and umbrella.

When it came time for lunch, I headed to a local grocery store to grab some food. At that particular time, a large group of American teenagers had flocked in to get sandwiches made at the deli counter. All of them were standing in line, wondering what to do. I walked in, grabbed some beverages out of a cooler and stood by the deli where I was acknowledged by one of the workers who took my order. Then one of the teenage girls said, "is this the line?" I told her, "Actually, people don't get in line in Italy. You go where there is room and order when you can." "Ooohhh!" she said, then went back to her friends to relay the new information.

We had a really good lunch -- sandwiches with pancetta, fresh mozarella, olive oil, fresh cherries, pringles, and pineapple bacardi coolers. Hannah took a little cooling-off break by wading into the sea a bit (which isn't warm really). Walking the 10 meters from the chairs to the water isn't as easy as it sounds. The beaches here are primarily pebble beaches, covered with small rocks more than sand. So walking is awkward and slightly painful without shoes. Everybody on the beach, except those who work there, look like a swarm of invalids.

Once she got to the water it was all downhill. Literally - the bottom drops pretty quickly. Which also made it frantically awkward to get away from the jellyfish that seemed remarkably attracted to her.

After several hours of sunbathing, we headed leisurely back through town to our hotel, stopping occasionally at shops to browse shoes (I've been borrowing Hannah's flip flops since my sandals have literally been eating my feet -- I have 7 blisters currently), limoncello, and clothes.

Here in Positano, it is very easy to appreciate il Dolce far niente -- the Italian phrase for the sweetness of doing nothing. We Americans have a hard time doing this without pangs of guilt or shame. Hannah is panicking that she doesn't have any mathematical papers to read or grade. So we're being schooled in it big time here. And it's awesome.

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